Well, maybe not that interesting, but thanks again Justin.

By the way, I added sensors 5 and 6 the same way I did the first 4, with Link Management, Add Sensor to EZSnSRF, and carefully following the seven step instructions.

Well, I found Delete on the first device code – hopefully that deleted the links as well.

Here goes.

This is getting more frustrating. There seemed to be some order dependency, but now I’m not sure. Here’s my attempts:

1. Added .1 and .2, but they didn’t work. (I can tell right away, because the Current State box is blank instead of saying “Off”.) I added .3 and it did work, so I thought there was something magical about order. But unfortunately, I can’t just delete the links that don’t work from the ISY – it insists on making you delete all of them and start over.

2. So I added .3 first (forgetting to reset the SnSRF), then I could add .1, .2, and .4 and they all worked (all 4 units on the same base frequency). But when I tried adding .5 on a different frequency, it did not work.

3. So I deleted the links and reset the SnSRF, then I added .1 thru .4 and none of them work!

My procedure:
1. Delete the SnSRF links on the ISY.
2. Reset the SnSRF (hold the set button while plugging it in – tone sounds and red light shows. A few seconds later the tone stops. I release the set button and the light goes green. I can tell when I have done this, because the first device added after the reset is .1, no matter what the unit code.
3. In ISY, do Link Management -> Add Sensor to EZSnSRF, then I get the 7 part instruction window.
4. I press and hold the Set button until the LED starts a slow flash.
5. I click the button on the UT3000 (since that’s the easiest way to set all the device codes, rather than trying to drive my car over the burial sensor while also hitting buttons on the computer!). The SnSRF clicks and the LED goes to a fast flash.
6. I click OK, and windows pop up in the background while it transmits the link stuff. But the 7-part instructions stay on the screen.
7. I press and hold the Set button until the LED goes off.
8. Since I don’t want a timer, I press and hold the Set button again until the LED goes on steady.
9. I press OK again on the 7-part instruction window.

I plugged the EZSnsRF into an outlet inside my garage (by the way, what is the minimum operating temperature of this thing? It can get down below freezing in the garage in the winter!).

I walked out to the end of the driveway (about 100 feet away from the EZSnsRF). I have a test program that responds to any of the 6 devices I was able to get working, and it flashes the garage floodlights.

I was able to press the button on the UT-3000 (and see the floodlights flash), only about 10 feet past the end of the driveway! So much for the supposed 600 foot range of these sensors! 😥

And forget about anything blocking the signal. I had the garage door open, and I could clearly see the EZSnsRF from where I was standing (pushing the UT-3000 button!), so I had direct line-of-sight! 😯

I was hoping to at least reach across the road (maybe 130-140 feet) to use one of the UT-3000 in my mailbox, and to be able to press the UT-3000 button from my car as it approached the driveway (as a long-range and souped-up garage door opener / welcome home program.)

So how do I extend the range of the EZSnsRF and/or it’s sensors?

I am now thinking of running a 100 foot extension cord out, to mount the EZSnsRF up in the trees near the end of the driveway. I’d need an weatherproof enclosure. But then I’d be even more worried about the minimum operating temperature.

I guess I could mount it outside in something like this: 😆
http://www.amazon.com/7511A-HTR-Heated-Polycarbonate-Enclosure-Environmental/dp/B0015Q7YTS/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1398633714&sr=8-2-fkmr1&keywords=weatherproof+enclosure+heated#productDetails