AnonymousApril 13, 2008 at 6:36 amPost count: 5
I’ve read the quickstart guide, but it does not go in detail enough with the physical wire connections for each input type (opto-isolated/digital/analog). If someone knows where the detailed (not quickstart) documentation is, please point me in the right direction.
I have one of the opto-isolated and the two digital/analog (an1, an2) available. I am using Indigo to coordinate the whole thing.
I am trying to control a portable AC unit that only has an infrared interface and manual on/off buttons. I was not successful at reliably controlling the unit using just a smarthome tempLinc. The tempLinc would often miss the setpoints and not generate the signals to turn on or off. I am using iRed to convert the x10 signals to infrared. Since this room has a lot of computer equipment, it really needs to be reliably controlled. The tempLinc is currently setup to send the on and off at the setpoints and the temperature. What I wanted to do is have the ability to override when the signal fails (ie. temperature rises a few degrees above setpoint in tempLinc) or if the unit gets out of sync (computer thinks unit is on when actually is off) if the manual button is used on the unit. I have a CRMagnetics 9580-20 current sensor that puts out between 0 and 5VDC when the unit is on and drawing 0 to 20 amps. Since my portable AC draws up to 12Amp, the output voltage will probably only go from 0 to 2.5 volts. The CRMagnetics manuals states that a 1M resistor must be used to limit the voltage to 5VDC. Using a volt meter and the 1M resistor, I’ve verified that the sensor indeed outputs between 0 to 2.75 volts when on max. My problem is I am not sure how to connect either the opto-isolated inputs or the analog inputs so that Indigo recognize that the unit is on/off. I am using the first 3 opto-isolated inputs from a relay attached to my alarm with no problems.
Also, if anyone has a better suggestion (i.e. newer modules) on how to control this unit please don’t hesitate.
RolinAnonymousApril 14, 2008 at 1:33 amPost count: 1001
The spec on the opto-isolated inputs says 3-30 VDC. Your 2.5/2.7 falls outside that range. The spec on the AN1/AN2 analog inputs operating in Digital mode (the default mode) says 2.5-5 VDC for an OFF condition. Your 2.5/2.7 may be reliable but that is very close to the low end of the OFF range. I would put the analog inputs, AN1/AN2, into Analog mode and set the alarm trigger levels for the input to something that reliably differentiates the ON from the OFF condition of the AC unit. There are two alarm trigger values, one controls the ON to OFF transition point and one controls the OFF to ON transition point. Would require a little experimentation in setting the Alarm trigger values to be sure they are not on the fringe of a range. You will need the free Simplehomenet Utility Suite to set the AN1/AN2 inputs to analog mode and the alarm trigger values (or some other HA software that supports configuring an EZIO8SA).
EDIT: Just realized I did not say anything about connections. Not sure what you are looking for. If you have successfully connected to opto-isolated Inputs 1-3, you are familiar with the Input connections. GND is pin 9, AN1 is pin 10, AN2 is pin 11. With that information in the Quick Start Guide and on the label above the connector (I think) can you expand on what more you need in this area.
2ND EDIT: Hate to add to the questions but the Simplehomenet web site lists the EZIO8SA opto-isolated Input voltage range as 2-30 VDC rather than the 3-30 VDC in the Quick Start Guide. With your target as 2.5/2.7 that would be the difference between being able to use an opto-isolated Input or not. Suggest calling Simplehomenet support to determine what the correct range actually is. You can still use the Analog input configuration with the trigger levels.AnonymousApril 15, 2008 at 6:39 amPost count: 5
You were absolutely correct about the voltage. I wrapped the common wire an extra time in the sensor loop and it added an extra 2 volts. So, at full speed the sensor puts out around 4.5 VDC. I was able to get both, the opto-isolated and AN1 as a digital working without configuring the voltage endpoints. (default setting is appropriate for my situation)
I removed the 1M resistor because it didn’t make any difference. Any ideas why a resistor would be recommended since the CRmagnetic sensor is totally isolated from the current of the air conditioning unit? Is it to prevent interference with the other inputs?
Thanks for your help.
RolinAnonymousApril 15, 2008 at 7:32 amPost count: 1001
I don’t know why the 1M resister unless they want to limit current flow in the control circuit. Hard to get much current to flow across a 1M load. I think I would put it in the circuit if CR Magnetics recommends it, assuming the EZIO8SA input works with it. I looked through the CR Magnetics web site but could not find a device with the model number you listed. With the opto-isolated Input working with 4.5 and not with 2.5, it suggests the 3-30 VDC value in the quick-start guide was the correct one. The 4.5 value sounds like a reliable value to control either the opto-isolated or digital Input. I’ve had good results with the Simplehomenet devices I use. Don’t have an EZIO8SA, but the Inputs on 3 EZIO2X4s, 1 EZIO6I, and an old EZIO8T (which I no longer use) have worked well. Glad your up and running.
LeeAnonymousApril 15, 2008 at 7:50 amPost count: 5
Here is a link to the part from digikey where I purchased it. I am not sure why CRMagnetics doesn’t list it on their website.AnonymousApril 15, 2008 at 8:31 amPost count: 1001
Looks like they call for the 1M to insure linear accuracy of the sensor. Since you are really only interested in is it running or not running, probably does not matter. Noticed that the spec says Max Signal Out 12VDC. Maybe a spike is possible. Might be best to stick with one of the opto-isolated Inputs which have the 30 VDC upper limit. Don’t know what a 12V spike might do to the ANx Inputs.AnonymousApril 15, 2008 at 12:39 pmPost count: 5
Okay. I put back the 1M resistor and got a strange behavior when using the AN1 as a digital input. This may have been what threw me off in the first place. When the AC unit is OFF both AN1 and AN2 inputs show a ON (which represent that power is off). And when the AC unit is ON, AN1 show an OFF and AN2 show an ON. It is as if, it is reporting on both AN1 and AN2 even though nothing is plugged into AN2. Is a normal behavior? Without the resistor, it only reported on AN1.
This may have been why I thought this wasn’t working. But, this may be the correct behavior.
Well, after running for a few minutes, the AN2 input is fluctuating between ON and OFF. Is this where the so-called pull-up resistor come into play? Since AN2 is not being used, can I connect the AN1 lead also to the AN2 input to prevent it from fluctuating back and forth causing unnecessary logic calls in the application logic.AnonymousApril 15, 2008 at 3:11 pmPost count: 1001
I have seen the same thing on my EZIO6I when I left AN2 float. Not sure about connecting the single control across both ANx inputs. Seems like it should work from the EZIO8SA perspective but not sure how the current sensor output would be affected. The spec on the current sensor does say the output is overload protected so it should be safe to try it. I think you can connect GND on the EZIO8SA to the AN2 Input, putting AN2 in a powered ON forever. That is what I did with my EZIO6I. Was afraid of putting the 12V to AN2, even through a pull-up because of the low voltage range of the ANx Inputs. The EZIO2X4s are easier to work with in this area because they provide a 5V source that the pull-up resisters can be connected to. The opto-isolated Inputs have the pull-up resister built into them. They can’t build the pull-up resister into the ANx Inputs because that would prevent them from being used in Analog mode.
EDIT: went back through some of the older forum topics and they make the same suggestion regarding grounding the unused ANx inputs so they do not float and cause random state changes.
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